Posts Tagged ‘marine’
Mariner Outboard Motors Parts
September 4th, 2011 | 
Author: mariner outboard motors parts
1996 Mariner 150 Magnum III Outboard
How do you know if your lower unit is bad? part 2?
Ok so i’ve asked this question in a early thread, but i didn’t provide enough information for others to understand what i mean by lower unit being bad. I took my outboard/boat to a mariner repair place, he told me that my lower unit is bad because it leaking oil from the vent where water would go inside the motor to cool it. Also i went to another place and they told me to put it in gear and try to turn the propeller to see if oil leaks out and it did. But how do i know if it actually bad. the motor is a mercury 65hp 4 stroke unknown year but the casting seem pretty old enough.
Did the shop give you an estimate with a description of what they wanted to do and the cost for parts and labor?
If you did the simple oil test, and there was no water in the oil (not milky and not clear water) the source might be from power head. The 4 cycle engine shouldn’t be that old. if the oil that drips out, and is blackish, not clear honey looking, you might be burning a little oil.
I would make sure the lower unit is full of oil, with no water, and also the oil for the power head is full, then use the boat normally for at least an hour, then recheck the condition and level.
There is a simple pressure test to check the seals. Have the shop run that test, while you watch. Resealing is normally in the $200 price range, and most mechanics will replace the water pump at the same time. That adds about $60 or so.
If you give us the sr # we can tell you the year, or you can checK a site like www.maxrules yourself.
I was trying to remember a 65HP that was 4 stroke but I can’t remember one. The 3 cyl. 65 was built in the 60′s and 70′s but that was 2 stroke.
If your is a 2 stroke, what you might be seeing is burnt 2 stroke oil, which drips out around the thru prop exhaust area, and is completely normal. Do the pressure test, and check the lower unit oil. If the engine runs and shifts you might not have any problem with the lower unit.
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Tags: boats, engine, lanche, marine, mariner outboard motors parts, mariner outboard motors parts diagram, motor | 
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Outboard Marine
outboard marine
Outboard Marine Corporation
How can I eliminate a high speed miss on my Chrysler 120 hp outboard marine engine?
junkie, get your merc
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Tags: boat, boats, marine, motor, outboard, outboard marine, outboard marine corporation, outboard marine engines, outboard marine motors, outboard marine pension |
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Marine Engines Parts
marine engines parts
Perkins Diesel Engine Animation
I attempt to start the serial number on a Mercury outboard 2hp.?
The bonnet is made of plastic, dark gray in color and has "Thruster of Mercury Marine "in white letters on them. I've looked all IT & no part numbers or names anywhere to say what it was made.Usually serial numbers are stamped to the mounting bracket, but on this one. Does anyone know what model year is my description? I have a picture of it here if I can somehow get. I have a new fuel valve of a broken and replaced my local Mercury dealer says that the component is no longer available and does not know the age of the engine. Thanks.
My friend had a Mercury outboard motor and had the same problem, he contacted a dealer and they told him that on an aluminum core plug on the side of the block, had been a powerful model but not sure if this will help, check it out anyway, it may destroy your engine.
Johnson Marine Parts
johnson marine parts
Affordable Marine Service Mercruiser U Joint Bellows , how to change them
Where can I find some funky diaper bags?
My sister gives all her money to make sure she has everything her baby needs, she is a U.S. Marine, and has a part-time job at night (living in California is a bit expensive). So I want her to get something, so they can look stylish, and still her baby. Her style is more like Ed Hardy and Betsey Johnson. Do you know something where I can find funky like this? I want the designer, but if not, it's okay:) Thanks! Oh and it's a boy! 
These sites have some nice ones:)
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Tags: boat, boating, johnson marine parts, johnson marine parts longville, marine, parts, repair |
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4 Stroke Boat Motors
4 stroke boat motors
Cold Start Diesel Boat engine (Sabb diesel)
Securing a Yamaha 15 hp (4 stroke) and trailer?
I have a 1915 Yamaha 4-stroke. If I tow the boat with the motor in the down position, as the manual recommends, the lower unit (Skag?) is close to the road. I can tilt it up, but it can bounce and fall to the lowest position since this "lock" is not Trailer. All the manual says is safe for the engine upright "in one way or another" trailer if necessary. Has anyone seen a good way to secure the motor tilted so that the engine drags the pavement? Thanks
I have exactly the same setup, but with an April 15 stroke Honda. The Honda manual gives a minimum distance of eight inches between the skeg and the ground. And if too close then advises the user to develop a strong, secure support, because, as you say, the lock is not intended for pulling situations. I use a bank of light 50mm purpose made box about seven or eight inches in length (in this case). Each end of the box is covered with a target made of plastic stopper if I had access to these, but you could fashion a square wedge of soft wood. At each end of the box is drilled Rite-thru bore to the right) accepting of the engine removable pin (about 8mm i think. The pin may be withdrawn and replaced by the box, to attach very safe indeed, at that end. Drill holes near the ends the mirror to avoid the short end contacting the boat. But far enough for strength. Swing the box to the leg support unit square to rest (ie 90 degrees) On the other hand on your desired height. (On mine, I set it the same as one of the stops, so it's belt and braces!). Then through the hole drilled on the other side of the profession, it firmly to the outboard leg by two very heavy cable ties: through the holes and around the leg. Take a small supply in your starter kit and just cut them off when done, Take a little time and make the box carefully and will work to make the years. -|–)
Marine Outboards
marine outboards
4, outboard motors, others control your oil level at regular intervals, the oil change is the next most important task. Regular changes oil to prolong engine outboard life. You can do this task by itself without too many problems. Just remember to think in a methodical manner and have everything ready before starting. Here are the steps you must take to change your outboard motor oil.
1. Always follow the manufacturers of outboard motor maintenance program. For example, for small external oil normally changed every 50 hours. For large outboard engines horsepower that can be every 100 hours. If you motor does not use much and not keeping records of the number of hours in use, then always change the oil every year.
2. Gather around a number of useful tools. A large screwdriver, wrench, socket set with a pipe wrench, an oil filter wrench, a funnel, a bucket or some kind of container to hold used oil, new oil, perhaps an oil filter to replace an oil, WD40 or similar tin, grease, a plastic bag, and some rags.
3. Having the manual outboard motors at his side. Check the amount of oil outboard has and obviously the type of oil. When an engine new outboard is that manufacturers like to use a particular brand of oil, but this is not so important with older engines. As long as it is the same grade and good quality, that will do the job just as well.
4. Before changing the oil, run engine until hot. Why? Well hot oil flow more easily than cold oil! You have to put the engine in a little water before you start or you can use motor muffs designed to allow fresh water flow through the engine as it runs. Sometimes, these sleeves are called washing devices. If you connect the system to your garden hose to just make sure that the faucet is not fully lit, adjust the flow accordingly.
5. Once the engine is hot. Remove the oil dipstick or cap oil and set aside. This will help drain the oil. Unscrew the drain plug with either a wrench or screwdriver, depending on the engine. Set aside (in a safe place.) Remember to catch all the oil used in the bucket or container.
6. Some outboard motors have an oil filter, if so, remove this also to have a plastic bag to keep it in place and to one side. Then screw the new filter a few turns, then with clean rags Base (home of the filter) and the use of some smear some grease around where the filter is going to rest in Continue to screw the new filter by hand until tight, then tighten a half turn. If the engine has no oil filter replacement, may be connected to the drain plug, then clean with a little gasoline to eliminate any traces of oil.
7. With the drain plug securely in place ready to fill with new oil. Use a funnel to fill hole prevent leakage. Fill with oil until it reaches the maximum level on the dipstick. Then replace the oil cap or dipstick.
8. Start the outboard motor function idle for 3 minutes. This is long enough to allow any new oil to reach all parts of the motor to be achieved. Check oil pressure warning light goes out and there are no leaks around the filter plug or drain.
9. Stop the outboard motor. Leave for 3 minutes to allow all oil to return to the sump. Then remove the dipstick to check the level. Fill with oil if necessary.
10. Finally, get rid of your oil used in accordance with local laws. Some areas have a local landfill can take your old oil and take care of it for you.
This procedure can be a little uncomfortable, but necessary. It is enough in most of the sailors ability to do without having to send the engine to a dealer or a mechanic.
If you would like more information on outboards why not visit my blog at – http://www.sailorpower.co.uk.
Ian McCulloch has been sailing and boating almost all of his life. For the past 35 years he has been building boats of all types. At present he builds fibreglass dinghies. Ian has several websites, one which concentrates on outboard motors – http://www.sailorpower.co.uk
For more information on outboard motors why not visit his website.
Bass Boat Motors
bass boat motors
Basstender Bass Boat, Motor And Trailer package For Sale!
Is it feasible to take the engine to one of my fishing boat and put it on a pontoon?
My old cajun bass boat is in pretty bad shape, but the engine (a 90 hp Johnson) runs like a top. At least it did when I last sweep two years ago. I used to own party on a private 800 acre lake, but sold. Now, I want to explore the local public waters, but my 16-footer did not take waves very well. There is a 33,000 acre lake near my house, it gets quite rough in those unexpected summer storms. Anyway, there is no advantage to sell my old boat, but not the engine to find a pontoon boat with no engine and put me on it?
A 90 hp motor is sufficient for a pontoon to 24 or 28 feet. Most toons use 50HP and 35 was the popular choice until about 10 years ago. I have a 24 footer and will do mph 19-20 with a 50. Note that pontoon boats are not good in big waves. Three to four footers are pretty hard on a show and when water washes over the deck, you have a good chance of loss of rails, furniture, etc. pontoons are really quiet lakes. Make sure that the engine is the right length (most are 20 "), so the Cavs record is in the water correct amount.
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Tags: bass boat motors, bass boat motors for sale, boat, boats, marine, outboard, pontoons, used bass boat motors |
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Yamaha Outboard Motors
yamaha outboard motors
How to Change Outboard Motor Gearbox Oil Yamaha
Spark plugs for 85 Yamaha outboard?
I have a 1983, 85 3cyl Yamaha outboard motor, runs fine, but I use NGK spark plugs just want to find out what the is best plugs for this engine
The only offer for a 85 hp Yamaha in my book for the years 1989-1996 which called for a B8HS-10. I believe I think the NGK spark plug for the best durability.
Perkins Marine Engines
perkins marine engines
Learn Sailboat Motor Gearbox Reconditioning, Part 1
The gearbox on the yacht of a friend, began to play until recently. This is a simple Hurth gear box with a lever with three positions – forward, aft and neutral – that is all you need for the vessel in half. From time to time slipped out of gear when going forward and after a few seconds later clutching again and go back up. This was fine for a while, but noted that, as always, these failures gradually deteriorate and become worse, not better, and that at some point in the future would need a little attention. Sure enough and it gets worse left off the team more time before returning again to the point where they decided to take some positive action.
Apart from that is, potentially hazardous unable to go astern when docking, etc., or consequential damages resulting from not being able to avoid a collision when under power, is practical of good seamanship to keep right on top of these maintenance work when they occur – not much later, when it could potentially put, his ship, its crew and others at risk. This particular gearbox is a simple Hurth (Hurth 150) a gearbox connected to a marinisa Perkins 4108 (48hp) motor Diesel confusing history. The ship was built in 1988 and the engine could have had hours on it before marinisa. The Hurth have installed new at the time and twenty thousand five hundred hours have been worked into the mix in subsequent years.
Next a considerable amount of research we have located a marine engineer, who can to service and repair the gearbox we can provide it. This is the point that we are currently in now, and up to diving in the bilge to decouple the shaft the gearbox and remove the motor gearbox. The date has been set and all goes well we should have of the boat and the engineer on the afternoon of Tuesday 14 April.
Week Santa has arrived and as expected we are living the Easter time classic – overcast, drizzle rain, but warmish – that never fails, no matter what time Easter falls! That being the case presented by one day the task of the second phase of our project to remove the gearbox (challenge) – never a bad idea when dealing with mechanics that with the best will in the world, often are deficient in the time promised.
Fortified with a good cup of tea Patrick (the owner) and I started to work have removed all the side panels around the engine. There is a nice bright light cabin type installed in the engine room so that at least the light will not be a problem. first task is to drain the ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) of the gearbox and this is done without problems with the drain plug is quite loose ease. Then, the shift cable is disconnected from the shifter and hung out of the road. We removed the cable bracket and will also be on the road, when we got to fight the gearbox off the engine hood. So far so good, with all reasonably easily undo the nuts.
Now we come to what is to become the largest part of the heat generating part of the operation and that is to decouple the shaft coupling plates. The shaft must be slid into and gland through about eight inches, to allow coupling of the plates out and the gearbox to work outside their bolts on the hood. Do not want to move. Nothing generates heat faster than two mechanics in a confined space fans busy in a stubborn piece of machinery that do not want to give up your purchase. The axis has been very happy turning while driven by the engine, but once dissociated not want to turn by hand and definitely not wanting to be slid in and sternward through the gland.
The priority is obviously yes packing beds in the aft and stayed in a comfortable position from which objects to being changed. The next step is to extract packing and this is laboriously achieved with a sharpened screwdriver and time. It's been a while (ten years), and the gland was so full that he was stiff, hard and dry. With the packing removed and the greater leverage available try to separate shaft coupling plates. Moves around an inch and stops again. A few minutes later, sweaty and leverage a combination between the plates and a driver turning the coupling plates side by side in the top plate of the shaft and the shaft works five to six centimeters.
This looks good, but we would discover later that it was not too far. The next task is to pick the lock of coupling discs. These are very cleverly jumped from both directions and set screw is not enough space to leave their plates full. This was where we discovered axis and the plate had to go a little further aft. At that time we knew what we were doing and efforts to raise a couple of good and well done. With a long debate on how to remove the bolts of the coupling plates, minutes later and got a lot of squirming away. It was at this point began to speculate on how were going back to riding! Cross that bridge when we get to it was the consensus.
With the coupling of plates were removed quickly closing in our objective. Six nuts are all that now stand between us and the culmination of this part of the job. Surprisingly, all fall apart gently and with an elevation soft pull out of their wooden poles, the gearbox is off the hood and is lying on the floor of the cabin.
In a properly sized bucket, carefully to reduce supply and rowing on land is carried out smoothly. We will take this into Barry sharpish engineers gearbox "bench tomorrow morning leaving him to do the refurbishment which is a work of specialists.
We have set the goal (reminiscent of a "project of Top Gear") to have the gearbox in our hands and installed again on the ship on Saturday – watch this space for part 2.
For images of this work go to my website, click on the blog and go to the blog of 05 April 2009.
You can read more about mechanical adventures while at sea "in step" in my book "Journey of the Little Ship Tere Moana downloadable" from my website sailboat2adventure.
About the Author
Vincent Bossley is a sailor and publisher living on the Northern Beaches of Sydney, Australia. He has his own www.sailboat2adventure.com website for cruising sailors, sailors planning their lifetime adventure, armchair sailors, virtual sailors and indeed anyone who has ever dreamt about sailing off into the oceans of this beautiful planet of ours. He offers an extremely useful package of ’101 Dollar Saving Tips for Sailors’ gleaned from his experiences that could save the voyager many hundreds or maybe thousands of dollars during their voyage. Included is his 135 page download illustrated ebook ‘Voyage of the Little Ship ‘Tere Moana’ of his own four year sailing adventure to many of these tropical paradises. Also FREE is the ‘Ten Top Tips’ to look for when purchasing your dream sailboat by internationally renowned marine surveyor Mark Clarke. Vincent is passionate about getting budding sailors started on planning their own odyssey. You can visit him anytime on his www.sailboat2adventure.com website
Tohatsu Outboard Engine
tohatsu outboard engine
The choice of an outboard motor used
30 years ago American manufacturers directs market.Names outboard engines such as Mercury, Johnson, Evinrude and Chrysler, led the field competing to produce more and larger outboard motors. However, while this was happening were setting aside more small outboard motors. These are the outboard engines sold in the greatest numbers and are often the first outboard many of us buy. This being the case that many of us adhere to the same brand (brand loyalty) and the purchase of outboard motors larger over the years. The Japanese advantage this fact and little by little Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki and Tohatsu outboard motors began focusing on small to take over as market leaders. They got the domain to improve the efficiency and reliability. In addition to adding these small outboard motors previously only found in larger engines.
The Japanese carmakers extended the power range. Again came to dominate the market for outboard motors up to at least 20 horsepower. American manufacturers rather to compete with the Japanese, gave up and decided to buy these engines from the Japanese and badge them as their own. Now the Chinese have entered the market. Basically do what the Japanese did previously, copying the best features of today's engines while keeping costs down.
So compare usedoutboard engines on offer for those looking for an outboard motor for your boat. If we take a boat big enough to say, a Pioneer 12, each outboard have to push a reasonably heavy weight through the water. If we take the outboard following:
Mercury 2.5hp, 3.5hp Mercury, Mariner 2.5hp, Tohatsu 3.5hp, 2.5hp Yamaha Suzuki 2.5hp, Honda 2.3hp, 2.6hp and Parsun. These outboard motors 4 two-stroke engines, due to a European directive that prevents two strokes to be sold in the European.Union. These outboard motors provide a fairly wide range of engines available in the market for power boats.
Judging a used motor boat against the other various tests were completed. A test of bollard pull showed that Mercury and Tohatsu 3.5hp 3.5hp were the most powerful in 90 pounds of thrust (These two engines together with the Mariner are virtually identical.) The least effective was the 2.3hp Honda 66 pounds of thrust. Among Suzuki 2.5hp were 83 pounds of thrust, Yamaha 2.5hp 78 pounds of thrust and Parsun 2.6hp to 70 pounds of thrust.
next test was the fuel consumption. At full speed – 5.75 knots, the best Yamaha outboard motors were the Suzuki 2.5hp and 2.5hp at least 20%. The worst was the 2.6hp Parsun. When the accelerator is eased and the boat was traveling on a comparison of fuel consumption is less Clearly, the difference of only 10%. All these figures are for 4-stroke engines. However, according to figures previously presented by two strokes under similar circumstances engines were higher up to 50% less fuel consumption at full speed. Very thirsty! Remember two outboard times are still available second hand.
Then the weight of the outboard motor was compared. Four times heavier than the older 2-stroke engines due to the power unit, etc. The Mercury, Mariner, Tohatsu, Parsun Yamaha and all weighed approx. 38-41 pounds (18 kg.). However, Honda and Suzuki 2.5hp 2.3hp weighed much less 28 pounds (12.5 kg.).
The price of each motor outside side was compared. This was difficult to be as accurate as discounts and offers for sale are always changing.
Although it was the cheapest Parsun and is nearly identical the same engine as the Yamaha 2.5hp, is not as good. It's a bit like me, following a Gordon Ramsay recipe to the letter, but when compared side by side you just know that its going to be much better. The Chinese are capable of copying, like the Japanese did before them, but have not got it right, yet!
Finally a little about each outboard used the test. Mercury, Mariner and Tohatsu are the same engine. From gas adjustments are easy to understand with the choke and stop button clearly labeled. Gasoline on / off tap is not as clearly marked. All engines are gearing. Forward and neutral then using the rotation of 360 degrees can be obtained from astern thrust. There are four tilt positions and a shallow water capacity. oil levels can be easily controlled by viewing the indicator on the side of the engine cover.
The 2.5hp Yamaha was also easily understood settings but the start and stop oil level indicator is out of sight under the engine casing cover. Like mercury outboard 2.5hp Yamaha has the arts, past and neutral rotation of 360 degrees. Unlike the mercury that has a safety pin, the Yamaha has a rubber cup on the propeller, so no safety pin to break.
The Suzuki 2.5hp is as above but with the oil gauge easily visible on the side of the roof. The propeller has a safety pin spares stored underneath the engine cover.
The 2.3hp Honda is not water cooled, and all outboard motors other evidence. It is air cooled and has no gears. Instead use a centrifugal clutch. This makes the start maneuvers and more difficult than others. It just takes a little getting used to it. The oil gauge is visible under the cover. The helix has a safety pin to keep parts under the engine cover.
Finally, the Parsun 2.6hp, a copy of the Yamaha 2.5hp but not as good. However, it is the cheapest of the engine when new. Fuel consumption was the main attraction back.
Ship Used Motor
About the Author
I throughly enjoy writing simple articles on boat motorsand boat props
Check out my tech review site at: Used Boat Motors